Ground Cover Plants Perennials: 8 Reliable Picks and How to Grow Them

By Claire Whitaker

Updated November 2026

Ground cover plants perennials are low-growing plants that spread across bare soil, come back every year and keep weeds from taking over. If you want a living carpet under shrubs, along a path or on a slope, this guide walks you through choosing the right species, preparing the bed, planting for fast coverage and keeping the planting healthy over its first few seasons.

What Makes a Good Perennial Ground Cover?

Not every low plant works as a ground cover. A useful perennial ground cover spreads by rhizomes, stolons or dense crowns, stays under about 12 inches tall in most cases, tolerates foot traffic or mowing edges where needed, and returns from the root without replanting. Many gardeners also look for evergreen foliage so the bed still looks finished in winter.

Shopping for one? See our guide: Are Lily Plants Perennials? 6 Best Picks Compared for 2026.

Ground cover plants perennials fall into a few practical groups:

• Creeping spreaders such as creeping thyme and creeping phlox, which root where stems touch the soil.
• Clumping mats such as sedum and dwarf bugleweed, which fill in from a central crown outward.
• Shade carpeters such as sweet woodruff and foamflower, suited to woodland edges.
• Evergreen mats such as bearberry and pachysandra, which hold color through winter.

Step 1: Match the Plant to Your Light and Climate

Most failures with ground cover come from a mismatch between the plant and the site, not from poor technique. Before buying, check your USDA hardiness zone, how many hours of direct sun the area gets, and how well it drains.

Zone ranges are general guidance from common nursery references. Check the tag on the plant you buy, and remember that a plant rated for zone 5 may struggle in a hot, humid zone 5 summer if the soil stays wet.

Step 2: Prepare the Bed Properly

Spend your effort here. Perennial ground covers are expensive in time, not money, to replace if the bed fails in year one, and weeds are the main threat during establishment.

Clear and Test the Soil

1. Remove existing turf, weeds and perennial roots such as quackgrass or bindweed. Lay cardboard or landscape fabric if the infestation is heavy, and cut or pull the root systems you can reach.
2. Dig or loosen the soil to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. Compacted clay or gravel will stunt roots.
3. Test drainage by digging a hole about 12 inches deep, filling it with water and timing how long it takes to drain. If water is still standing after several hours, amend the bed or choose a plant that tolerates wet feet.
4. Work in 2 to 3 inches of compost. Most ground covers do not need heavy feeding, so avoid overfertilizing, which can produce leggy growth.

Set Spacing for Fast Coverage

Spacing depends on how aggressively the plant spreads and how quickly you want the bed to close. As a general rule, planting 6 to 12 inches apart fills most beds within one to two seasons, while spacing 18 inches apart can take three or more years. Slower spreaders like bearberry benefit from closer spacing, while vigorous plants like creeping phlox can be set farther apart.

Step 3: Plant and Establish

1. Water the plants thoroughly in their nursery pots before planting.
2. Dig holes just wide enough for the root ball, keeping the crown level with or slightly above the soil line. Burying the crown is a common cause of rot.
3. Loosen any circling roots with your fingers.
4. Backfill, firm gently and water in well.
5. Keep the bed evenly moist, not soggy, for the first six to eight weeks. Most ground covers need about 1 inch of water per week during establishment, including rain.
6. Mulch between plants with a thin layer of shredded bark or leaf mulch to suppress weeds. Keep mulch off the crowns.

Step 4: Maintain the Planting Over Time

Weeding in the First Two Years

Pull weeds by hand as they appear. Once the canopy closes, weed pressure drops sharply, but young beds need attention every week or two during the growing season.

Trimming and Renovation

Shear spreaders like creeping thyme after bloom to keep them dense. Sedum and similar clumping plants can be divided every three to five years when the center begins to thin. Cut back tired patches in early spring, before new growth starts, and replant bare spots with divisions from the healthy edges.

Watering and Feeding

Once established, most perennial ground covers need deep watering during dry spells rather than frequent light sprinkling. A single slow soak of about 1 inch per week, delivered to the root zone, encourages deeper roots. A light spring top-dressing of compost is usually enough feeding.

Recommended gear

A few simple tools make establishment much easier. A sturdy hand cultivator helps loosen compacted soil between plants. A soaker hose laid under mulch delivers water to the root zone without wetting foliage. A pair of bypass pruners keeps trimming clean, and a garden kneeling pad saves your knees during planting.

• Hand cultivator, for loosening soil around new plantings. View on Amazon
• Soaker hose, for slow, low-foliage watering during establishment. View on Amazon
• Bypass pruners, for clean cuts when shearing or dividing. View on Amazon

Common Mistakes

• Planting too sparsely. Wide spacing leaves gaps that weeds fill quickly.
• Burying the crown. Soil piled against stems causes rot, especially in sedum and bearberry.
• Ignoring drainage. Many ground covers that thrive in dry sites decline in wet clay.
• Skipping weed control at the start. Perennial weeds established before planting are very hard to remove later.
• Overfeeding. Excess nitrogen produces soft growth that is more prone to disease and winter damage.
• Choosing a plant for the wrong zone. Check hardiness, and also consider summer heat and humidity.

Related Reading

If you are still deciding between plant types, What Does Perennials Plants Mean? A Plain-English Guide explains the basics. For shady beds, Perennials Plants for Shade: 12 Reliable Picks and How to Grow Them offers more options. Established clumps often need dividing, so When and How to Divide Perennial Plants Successfully covers timing and technique. For broader planning, Using Ornamental Plants for Garden Design and Year-Round Interest shows how ground covers fit into a full design. If leaves start yellowing after planting, Why Are Plant Leaves Turning Yellow? Causes and Fixes can help you narrow down the cause.

FAQ

How long does it take for ground cover plants perennials to fill in?

Fast spreaders planted 6 to 9 inches apart often cover a bed within one growing season. Slower types may take two to three years. Spacing, soil and weed control all affect the timeline.

Can I plant ground covers under trees?

Yes, but choose shade-tolerant species such as sweet woodruff or pachysandra. Tree roots compete for water, so water deeply during dry periods and avoid digging close to the trunk.

Do ground cover perennials need full sun?

No. Sun tolerance varies. Creeping thyme and sedum need full sun, while sweet woodruff and foamflower prefer shade. Read the plant tag and match it to your site.

Are ground covers a good replacement for lawn?

They can be, especially in low-traffic areas. Most ground covers do not handle heavy foot traffic well, so keep them out of main paths and play areas.

How do I stop a ground cover from spreading too far?

Install a physical edging, such as a metal or plastic strip buried a few inches deep, and trim the perimeter each season. Aggressive spreaders may need division or removal of runners.

When is the best time to plant ground cover perennials?

Early spring and early fall are ideal, because soil is moist and temperatures are mild. Avoid planting in the heat of summer unless you can water consistently.

Do ground covers need to be fertilized?

Usually not heavily. A light top-dressing of compost in spring is typically enough. Too much fertilizer encourages leggy growth and can reduce winter hardiness.

Are there ground covers that stay green all winter?

Yes. Bearberry, pachysandra and creeping thyme are commonly grown for evergreen cover, though some foliage may look bronzed or dull in very cold winters.

Conclusion

Successful ground cover plants perennials start with the right plant for your light, zone and drainage, followed by careful bed preparation and steady watering through establishment. Keep weeds under control in the first two years and divide or shear as needed to maintain density. With that foundation, your planting should fill in, suppress weeds and return reliably for many seasons. For plants with specialized needs or signs of serious disease, consult a local extension office or certified nursery professional.

About Claire Whitaker

Claire Whitaker is part of our editorial team and reviews and edits our plant care Q&A guides, checking product details against manufacturer specifications and owner feedback.