Perennials for Ground Cover: A Step-by-Step Guide to Choosing and Planting

By Claire Whitaker

Updated November 2026

Perennials for ground cover are plants that come back year after year and spread to form a living mat over bare soil. Done well, they suppress weeds, hold soil in place, cut down on mulching, and reduce the amount of lawn you need to mow. This guide walks you through choosing the right plants for your conditions, preparing the bed, spacing and planting, and the first two seasons of care that determine whether the planting fills in or stalls.

What Makes a Perennial Good for Ground Cover

Not every perennial that stays low will work as a ground cover. A useful ground cover spreads by rhizomes, stolons, runners, or dense clumping that knits together, and it stays low enough that its foliage shades the soil. Tall, open-growing plants may look nice, but they leave gaps where weeds germinate. Look for these traits when you shop or read plant tags:

• Mature height under about 12 inches for most ground cover uses, though some slightly taller plants work in large beds.
• Spreading habit through rhizomes, runners, or self-seeding, or a dense mounding form that closes gaps quickly.
• Foliage that stays attractive for most of the growing season, not only during a short bloom window.
• Tolerance of the conditions you actually have, especially light, soil moisture, and foot traffic.

Step 1: Match Plants to Your Site Conditions

Before you buy anything, measure how much direct sun the area gets and how well the soil drains. Light is the single biggest factor in plant performance. Use this rough guide:

Check your local hardiness zone too, since a plant that is perennial in zone 7 may behave as an annual in zone 4. If you are not sure of your zone, the regional guide linked below can help narrow your choices.

For regional picks, see Perennials for Zone 6b: 7 Best Picks for Every Garden (2026). If your area gets strong afternoon sun, Low Maintenance Perennials Full Sun: 7 Best Picks for Easy Care (2026) covers plants that handle heat without much help.

Step 2: Prepare the Bed

Ground cover perennials spend their first season establishing roots, so the soil needs to be in decent shape before planting. Most failed plantings trace back to weeds that were never removed or soil that was compacted.

Clear and loosen the soil

1. Remove existing weeds, paying special attention to perennial weeds like bindweed, quackgrass, and dandelion. Pull or dig out roots; herbicide is not always necessary but can be used carefully if you prefer.
2. Loosen the soil to a depth of 8 to 10 inches with a garden fork or tiller. Compacted clay or lawn-grade soil should be broken up thoroughly.
3. Mix in 2 to 3 inches of compost across the bed, then rake level.
4. Check drainage. If water puddles for more than a few hours after rain, amend heavy clay with compost or choose moisture-tolerant plants.

Set up a planting layout

Spacing controls how fast the bed closes. Closer spacing fills in faster but costs more plants. As a general guide, 12 inches apart fills in within one to two seasons for most rhizomatous and clumping species, while 18 to 24 inches works for vigorous spreaders that will fill gaps on their own. Check the mature spread listed on the plant tag, then plant to about half that distance for quicker coverage.

Step 3: Plant and Water In

Plant in early spring or early fall, when temperatures are moderate and rainfall is more reliable. Fall planting is especially useful in cooler zones, because roots can grow before summer heat arrives.

1. Water the root balls in their nursery containers until they are evenly moist.
2. Dig holes about twice the width of the root ball and no deeper than the root ball itself. Crown rot is a common problem when perennials are planted too deep.
3. Gently loosen circling roots, set the plant so the crown sits level with the soil surface, and backfill.
4. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.
5. Apply 1 to 2 inches of shredded bark or leaf mulch between plants, keeping it off the crowns.

Step 4: Establish and Maintain the Planting

The first growing season is the most demanding. Expect to water deeply once or twice a week during dry spells, giving each plant about 1 inch of water per week including rainfall. Once plants are established, most ground covers need far less attention, but you should still:

• Hand-weed the bed regularly until the canopy closes. Small weeds are easy to remove now and very difficult later.
• Divide crowded clumps every 3 to 5 years, usually in spring or early fall, to keep plants vigorous. Our guide to When and How to Divide Perennial Plants Successfully explains the timing for common species.
• Trim tattered foliage in late winter or early spring, before new growth starts.
• Refresh mulch as needed, but avoid piling it deeply around stems.

Choosing Plants for Specific Goals

Ground cover for erosion control on slopes

Choose plants with dense root systems and spreading growth. Creeping thyme and creeping phlox handle slopes in full sun, while sweet woodruff holds soil in shaded banks. Install plants on slopes in staggered rows across the contour, not straight down the hill, to slow runoff.

Ground cover to replace lawn

Lawn replacement works best in sunny to part-sun areas with light foot traffic. Creeping thyme tolerates occasional stepping, and sedum forms a tight, low mat with minimal water. Be realistic: no perennial ground cover tolerates heavy play or daily traffic like turf does.

Ground cover under trees

Dry shade is the hardest situation. Look for plants that tolerate root competition and low moisture, such as barrenwort and some sedges. Our list of Perennials Plants for Shade: 12 Reliable Picks and How to Grow Them includes more options for these tough spots.

Common Mistakes

• Planting too sparsely. Gaps invite weeds. If budget or patience is limited, plant a smaller area densely rather than a large area thinly.
• Skipping weed removal before planting. Perennial weeds will outcompete young ground cover plants if they are not removed first.
• Burying crowns. Mulch and soil piled against stems cause rot, especially in wet climates.
• Choosing plants for the wrong light. Sun lovers in shade get leggy and thin; shade lovers in full sun scorch.
• Expecting instant coverage. Most perennial ground covers need one to two full seasons to close gaps completely.
• Overwatering established beds. Once roots are down, deep, infrequent watering is better than frequent light sprinkling.

Tips for Faster, Healthier Coverage

• Plant in drifts of one species rather than mixing many types, which often looks more cohesive and fills in more evenly.
• Start with a few tough, fast spreaders along the edges, then add slower, more ornamental plants in the center.
• Keep a simple planting log noting where you planted, when, and how each plant performed. It helps when you plan additions later.
• Consider a light fertilizer application in spring. A balanced slow-release product applied according to label directions is usually enough.

Recommended gear

A few basic tools make bed preparation and planting much easier. Choose durable, comfortable options since this is physical work.

• Garden fork — useful for loosening compacted soil to full depth without turning the soil into fine powder. View on Amazon
• Hand cultivator — a three-prong tool that works well for pulling small weeds and mixing compost into the top layer. View on Amazon
• Kneeling pad — spacing and planting dozens of plants is hard on knees; a padded pad reduces strain during long sessions. View on Amazon
• Shredded hardwood mulch — suppresses weeds and holds moisture between young plants; apply it in a 1 to 2 inch layer. View on Amazon

FAQ

What are the best perennials for ground cover in shade?

Sweet woodruff, barrenwort (Epimedium), and Japanese forest grass are reliable choices for shade. Sweet woodruff spreads quickly in moist, rich soil, while barrenwort handles dry shade once established.

How far apart should I plant ground cover perennials?

Most spreading perennials do well at 12 to 18 inches apart. Check the mature spread on the plant tag and plant at roughly half that distance if you want faster coverage.

How long does it take for perennial ground cover to fill in?

Expect one to two full growing seasons for most species. Fast spreaders may close gaps in one season, while slower clumping types can take two or three years.

Do perennial ground covers need fertilizer?

Most do not need much. A spring application of balanced slow-release fertilizer, following label directions, is usually sufficient. Over-fertilizing can cause leggy growth and weaker plants.

Can I plant ground cover perennials in fall?

Yes, especially in cooler climates. Fall planting gives roots time to establish before summer heat, though plants should be in the ground at least six weeks before the first hard frost.

How do I stop weeds from growing through ground cover?

Remove perennial weeds before planting, mulch between young plants, and hand-weed regularly until the canopy closes. Once the planting is dense, weed pressure drops considerably.

Are perennial ground covers safe for pets?

Many common ground covers are not known to be toxic, but plant safety varies by species and by animal. If you have pets that graze on plants, check the ASPCA’s toxic plant database for the specific species you plan to use, and consult a veterinarian if you are concerned about ingestion.

When should I divide ground cover perennials?

Divide clumping or crowded plants every three to five years, typically in early spring or early fall. Dividing keeps plants vigorous and gives you extra plants for other areas.

Conclusion

Perennials for ground cover reward careful planning. Match plants to your light and soil, prepare the bed by clearing weeds and loosening compacted ground, and space plants so they can knit together. Give the planting a season or two of attentive care, and you will have a low-maintenance mat that suppresses weeds and returns every year.

Related reading

• What Does Perennials Plants Mean? A Plain-English Guide

About Claire Whitaker

Claire Whitaker is part of our editorial team and reviews and edits our plant care Q&A guides, checking product details against manufacturer specifications and owner feedback.